Sunday, December 20, 2009

We make it to Boliva

Travelling North

On 12 December 2009 we return to Cordoba to get ourselves up to Bolivia (via Jujuy). It has almost been one month in South America (or month since I finished work) and we were finally getting near our core destination. Before leaving we had to wait about one hour as the bus we were taking had engine problems. The Argentines were once again great role-models: no one cared less about the delay and just chilled out while the mechanic fixed la problema. No one even asked what the delay was or queried a new ETD. On the bus we watched Control with Defoe and Liota. Not a great film but did the trick in terms of distracting us/helping us get to sleep.

Days in Jujuy and Border Crossing

When we arrived in Jujuy I insisted that we take the Lonely Planet recommended hostel., The place is without modcons and Sarah is not convinced this is the place for us. Too bad. We stay and have a relaxing couple of days checking out the Police Museum, Archaeology Museum and CulturaArtes. The Police Museum takes the cake out of all off these as it has a really fascinating, strangley macarbe, collection of Police Chief photo-potraits. The collection must span about 50 plus years. Very haunting. Even more spectacular was the photo collection housed in the upstairs R-16 section. That collection of photos displayed hangings, dead drunks, murders, et al. I have never been one to seek out snuff images online so maybe I am a little naive in regards to this kind of images. It was pretty offensive and at the same time I had to look at them all.

In the evenings we take the time to cook our own meals and I finish When Gravity Fails. If your want a book with a strong anti-hero then this is the one. My favourite memory from Jujuy is taking a shower in the upstairs bathroom. From the shower you can look out a large window over the roof tops of the city. Having a hot shower and staring out at such a sight, with their monumental Church towering over the other buildings was a neat spectacle.


La Quiaca, Villazon and trip to Tarija


We leave Jujuy on 15 December 2009 after having breakfast at a vegetarian place called Tierra Madre. Lucky Sarah insisted on eating breakfast becuase this turned into a long day. The border crossing in La Quiaca was easy but took a long time. Once in Villazon we both felt very fatigued and then found out that buses only leave at 20:00 which means we will arrive in our planned destination (Tarija) at 03:30.

After we eat some pizza and drink two litres of coke at a place called Snack Resteruant Oriental (which was about as oriental as Georgie Pie) we both start to feel a bit better. We bit the bullet and get our tickets and then kill about five hours waiting to depart.

The waiting turns out to be a lot of fun. The bus terminal in Villazon is circus in the best possible way. Upstairs there is a ad-hoc childrens boxing gym. The lady who we buy tickets from is an absolute sweetheart (and which we are thankful for in our weary states). While loitering across the road, waiting for our ride, we observe a lady hand making salteƱa (a dough pocket similar to an empanada) and she is making a killing. A mixed group of Spanish speaking guys, two with perfect English, approach us for some help. They are having a great time and are full of life shaking our hands and laughing in between personal, light-hearted innuendo. We are unable to help them but their engery is most welcome. Later a drunk guy comes up to us and kisses Sarah´s hand half a dozen times and gives me a massive hug and several handshakes. He returns later but thankfully our bus finally arrives at that time. Before getting on the bus I go to use the bathroom. On my return a derelict is dancing and stomping his feet singing loudly and cheerfully to Sarah (in order to illicit a tip). He is very animated and despite his appearance Sarah takes the whole performance in her stride.

After all this (a long day travelling) we finally ge ton a bus that takes us to Tarija. Our taxi driver is a helpful guy but the Hostal which I insist (again) we take is terrible and overpriced. We leave there first thing in the morning, feel very average, and move to Hostal Miraflores.

A Couple of Days in Tarija

Sarah and I stay in Tarija until 20 December 2009. We spend an excellent week working on our budgetting, spanish, watching MGM movies (the most horrendous being Sleeping with the Devil with Shannen Doherty; I love this film). We check out the palaeontology museum and work on catching up with freinds, family and blog.

On Satruday night Cheetah and I go on a date and drink a bottle of wine. It is the first time I have had alcohol in Bolivia since leaving Argentina. We have a great time talking about our plans for the year and reflecting on where we are at. We are finally in Bolivia, just like we always planned. To say this is a dream fulfilled is a heavy handed statement, but to bad, becasue that is exactly what it is.

Before dinner we walk past an inner city basketball court and there is under 17 teams playing. We sneak in and watch one and a half games. Number 8, surname Choco, is our favourite player but his team finds a world of hurt with a 50 point ass-whupping.

Tarija appears to be quite wealthy. The plaza is very nice, very well maintained. There is begging (often a whole family, sans Dad) in the streets which I found very confronting (to state the obvious). I cannot really comment on this at the time; I am sure the homelessness in Tarija is moderate in comparison to other parts of Bolivia. When it comes to writing about poverty I will be taking my time.

Next stop Sucre; freinds and family.

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